We all ride for different reasons.
For some, it’s daily sanity. For others, it’s adrenaline. And for many, it’s freedom — exploring new places and meeting new people, all from the smallest version of a mobile home: our two-wheeled best friend. For Maureen, that’s exactly what this trip was.
A seasoned veteran of Ontario’s BT700, Maureen is no stranger to long days and big adventures. So when she unexpectedly found herself between jobs with the entire month of August wide open, she naturally chose to take an extended bike vacation.
The Route: A Maureen Special
Like many of us, Maureen had been watching new bikepacking routes emerge across Canada. She became inspired by the Great Northern Bikepacking Route (GNBR) — a rugged line stretching from BC to Newfoundland. However, she realized those epic trails sometimes need to be tailored to fit her own wishlist. The GNBR, which hugs remote single and double track across southern Quebec is a beautiful beast of its own, but in places, seemed a bit unfriendly for Maureen's ideal trip. Inspired and undeterred, she pulled bits and pieces from nearby Quebec cycling routes for an ideal trip.
Her Partner in Crime
We met Maureen back in 2023 when we helped her build up a bike that checked all of the boxes, a fully custom Salsa Fargo that could handle all of the rugged terrain her dreams are made of with all the carrying capacity despite the x-small size frame.
With its steel frame and carbon fork, the Fargo blends mountain bike capability with long-distance drop-bar comfort — the perfect bike for big off-road adventures like this one.
As Maureen puts it:
“It’s the most comfortable bike ever. I love everything about it.”
Into the Appalachians
She launched her epic alongside Arlene Bissweiger, her friend since grade 7.Together they
made their way from Montreal to Sherbrook, a smooth and enjoyable opening stretch that delivered them to the edge of the Appalachian Mountains.
There, Arlene waved goodbye, and Maureen turned west onto rough ATV tracks and backroads threading through Quebec’s Eastern Townships along the Maine border.
This was the GNBR she’d been dreaming about - deep in the woods, resupply hoping on the kind of trails her bike was built to ride.
But the riding was HOT. After 7 days she faced her first major decision point. Ahead lay the GNBR through the remote Gaspesie Pac National - long stretches without resupply and rugged terrain. To her left was the alluring cool breeze of the St. Lawrence.
Ultimately the cool breeze won.
Coastal Views and Gaspé Climbs
Once along the coast, the landscape shifted dramatically. Seals and seabirds kept her company. Sunsets lit up the bay. The rolling coastline stretched endlessly — and sometimes steeply.
Near the tip of the peninsula, Along the St. Lawrence, Maureen found herself on what seems like a short 600m hike-a-bike trail up and over a ridge.
“It was on a trail that was so steep it had a rope for hikers to pull themselves up. I just took one step (or heaving of my bike up ledges) at a time. There was definitely cursing involved. I was thrilled that no hikers were around wondering what the heck I was doing with a loaded bike going up that trail.”
Turning Homeward
After soaking in the rugged beauty of Gaspé National Park, Maureen crossed inland once more and began tracing the old coastal highway back toward Montreal.
As the month came full circle, Arlene rejoined her to finish the final stretch — a reminder that friendships built over a lifetime show up for the big moments.
Alone, But Never Lonely
Over 20 days of riding solo, Maureen surprised even herself.
“I have a friend who always said I had lonely-phobia — I just didn’t like being alone. And that’s probably true. I really enjoy being around people. But for some strange reason, I never really felt lonely on the ride.”
Somehow, messaging with friends, the support form Arlene on either end, and the people she met along the way were enough to fill the space.
We asked Maureen about characters she met and she recounted a home stay with an “old hippie guy”:
“He was out sailing as I arrived at his place and I helped him drag his boat up on shore. He had been very active in bike communities and lived in a house facing the beach on the south shore of the St Lawrence with a beautiful garden and loads of chickens. He had so many interesting life experiences and stories to share that kept us up til late.”
Maureen recalls waking up to a HUGE omelet made with eggs from his chickens, and riding off very full and happy.
Cuisine and Culture
Maureen felt right at home in southern Quebec. Being mostly bilingual, she relished the chance to practice her French and fully immerse herself in the culture — especially when it came to food.
“The Quebecois have amazing boulangeries where you can get delicious chocolate croissants or baguettes sandwiches. I am pretty food motivated so I was always looking for a coffee shop and boulangerie to stop at.”
She proudly shared a photo of a memorable breakfast:
Words of Advice
For others following in her steps, big or small, Maureen says:
- Believe in yourself
- Don't ride every day, let your body recover by taking days off
- Research your routes and alternatives well.
- Don't trust Google Maps when you are trying to find your way off a main highway, it might take you to closed or private roads with "Beware of Dogs" signs
- Bring turkey pepperettes or other strongly food scented treats to distract dogs if you get chased by them.
What’s Next?
After some rest, Maureen’s already eyeing more miles — including revisiting her backyard BT700.Plus, she’s already committed to doing “a section of the Eastern Divide trail this September from Sydney, NS to the main border (~1100km) with two other women”Honestly, is there a better way to spend a girls trip?
Gear Highlights
- Garmin inReach Mini 2: I got to test its effectiveness when I lost my phone one morning as I was about to set off and texted my sisters to call me. I heard the phone ring and quickly found that I had somehow stuffed it inside my sleeping bag as I was packing up. Also, the battery lasts a really long time in between charges. I think I only charged it 2 or 3 times during my trip.
- Quad Lock Phone Holder: While I had my garmin running with a route to guide me during the day, I always wanted to check the route on my phone to see what was ahead, if I was getting close to a town, where the stores were, etc. Having the phone handy right on the bike was way easier than pulling it out of a jersey pocket or in my short cargo pockets.
- Packable Backpack: I did not have a ton of space on my bike for extra anything so when I needed to buy food for the evening, I loved using a stuffable backpack that expanded to hold my groceries.
- Vittoria Mezcal 29x2.25 Tires: They were so awesome, gripped and rolled well. Can't believe how little air I lost over the course of the trip!
- Salsa Anything Cradle: The cradle never moves and you can strap anything to it. I just use a dry bag and voile straps to attach it to the cradle.
Final Numbers
- 2,761 km ridden
- 24,276 metres of elevation gain
- 28 days riding
- Average of 99 km per day
- Bike + gear weight: 65–70 lbs
Route Resources
GNBR
Veloroute Gourmond
Quebec Bikepacking Traverse
Route Vert
Accommodation Resources